Fit for a king

by Dinna Chan Vasquez

When we think about Thai cuisine, we always say “hot and spicy”. Yes, many dishes originating from Thailand are flavoured with chillies but the country’s cuisine has four other flavours- bitter, salty, sweet and sour- that, done perfectly, a harmonious blend of herbs and spices.

For example, the ubiquitous Tom Yang Gung or hot and sour prawn soup is not just a spicy version of our sinigang but an appealing combination of flavours (including sweet and slightly salty) from herbs and spices such as coriander and kaffir lime leaves in a broth.

A meal at Dusit Thani’s Benjarong restaurant offers a true taste of Thailand and its diverse colors and flavours, courtesy of chef Pacharaporn Noinak, who according to the hotel’s public relations manager Danelle Ruth Palang, personally oversees the preparation of each dish.

The effort of the nearly 70-year-old Noinak is worth it as each dish from the simplest Yam Som O or pomelo salad to the more complicated Gareng Karee Gai or yellow chicken curry is authentically Thai and delicious.

Benjarong literally means a style of multi-colored enamels on a white porcelain base that originated from China’s Ming Dynasty. The name “Benjarong” was derived from the Balinese and Sanskrit words Benja and Rong, meaning literally “five colors”. This can also refer to many colors as hand-painted colors are sometimes decorated in eight hues or more.

At Dusit’s Benjarong, one eats from porcelain ware that is densely painted and very delicately detailed. Most patterns are based on geometric designs using traditional Thai motifs such as flora and cultural symbols. At a certain point in Thailand’s history, Benjarong was exclusively made for the royal court.

Delicious food, impeccable service and classy setting befitting royalty make Benjarong a great choice a meal and have gained for the restaurant the reputation as Metro Manila’s best Thai restaurant.

You are greeted by a beautiful lady in traditional Thai dress and ushered into a dining hall with gilded chandeliers decorating the ceilings, ceramic bowls, plates and lids on the walls and wooden furniture. The interiors are very elegant and although the food is best served family style, everything about Benjarong screams classy.

They say the true test of a Thai restaurant is the Tom Yam Gung and if this is true, then Benjarong has passed the test with flying colors. Each bowl has prawns, basil leaves and fresh mushrooms (unlike other restaurants where these are canned). If you’re into chillies, you can request that the soup be mildly spiced but those who want fiery food can ask for “wild spicy” and really get that they asked for “wild spicy” and really get what they ask for. I am not a great fan of spicy food but in my opinion, the taste of Benjarong’s Tom Yang Gung is better with lots of chillies.

The Khao Klug Kapi or fried rice with shrimp paste uses real bagoong, not the super-sweet version that we eat our green mangoes with. The Pad Thai Gung is an interesting blend of tastes and textures from the crunchy bean sprouts to the slightly salty-mildly sweet Thai patis.

We started our meal with Yam O, which was good to the last bite. And Thord Man Gung, which are deep fried shrimp cakes served with an interesting chilli sauce that had hints of tamarind, another Thai staple.

For the main course, we had Pla Krapong Jean Nam Makham, deep-fried lapu-lapi fillet in tamarind sauce, and the spicy Gaeng Khieo Wan Gung or green chicken curry with coconut milk, which is best eaten with divine white rice served inside an inverted cone made of banana leaf, and topped with lovely orchids.

For dessert, must-tries are Khao Niao Namung or sticky rice with mango, and the famous Khanom Tako or sweet water chestnut and coconut cream in a cup made of pandan leaf. The latter is an acquired taste of some people but those who are used of eating this always look forward to eating it whenever they eat in a Thai restaurant.

Dining at Benjarong, like most things Thai, is a complete sensory experience not to be missed. Despite its reputation as a classy restaurant, prices are surprisingly reasonable. A hearty meal for two people could cost P2,000, including drinks.

For information, call 867-3333.