Champagne enhances flavor of food

By Micky Fenix

FOR SOMEONE QUITE SHY ABOUT appearing in the company’s brochure, Pierre Emmanuel Taittinger, when asked to pose, proved he knows how to sell his product. He said that it should be better if he had a champagne glass in his hand. But he also liked that he was asked to pose beside the poster that features his daughter, Vitalie, the communications head of the family company. It just so happened that a row of Taittinger champagne bottles were near the poster, which made the photo opportunity even better.

Taittinger Champagne could have been a company without anyone in the family as part of it. In 2005, all the family businesses that included banks, hotels and the champagne house were sold to an American investment company. When the businesses were all separated by the new owners, Pierre Emmanuel Taittinger, with the backing of a bank, bought back Taittinger champagne. There were several offers from different groups from many countries, but he said the bank knew that the Taittinger brand had to have a part of the family. And you could see on his face the pride at having won back what is said to be the third oldest champagne house.

After 10 years, the head of Taittinger was back for a visit. There was a party the night before when Taittinger Champagne must have flowed, but Pierre Emmanuel said that he had no hangover and he thought the guests were okay also. With that, he raised his glass and drank.

Celebrations and champagne go together. Championships have bottles poured or squirted on winning teams, certainly a waste—but it probably isn’t great champagne but cheaper sparkling wine. New boats are launched with it by breaking a bottle on its bow. Toasting partnerships, weddings and other milestones of one’s life all need a fluted glass with tiny bubbles rising to the top.

Food partner

But what Taittinger wanted to assure us that day was that champagne “doesn’t hide the flavors of food.” With that, he asked that lunch be served by the staff of I’m Angus Steakhouse on Yakal Street in Makati. It belongs to the slew of restaurants of Werner Berger, whose Santi’s Delicatessen distributes Taittinger champagnes.

A Brut Reserve nonvintage was served with the appetizers: Duck liver terrine selection, marinated seabass and Atlantic scallop. The soup of cappuccino of lobster bisque was accompanied by the Prestige Rosé nonvintage, which Taittinger said is made from still red wine blended with Chardonnay, which gives the champagne “a beautiful persistent color.” When the perfectly grilled Australian beef medallion was served, it came with the Comtes de Champagne ’99, the exceptional vintage wine made from 100 percent Chardonnay in a differently shaped bottle with the Comtes name more prominent than Taittinger. One connoisseur with us declared that the Comtes we were having was still “young” because it was still acidic in the mouth. We had the Comtes until the trio of sweets.

Throughout lunch historical footnotes were made. Taittinger stated how French king Louis XV liked to have his mistresses drink the bubbly champagne with him—never mind that it was born in monasteries.

He also declared that he drinks champagne daily, but added that he also enjoys pastis (anise-flavored liqueur) either with almond syrup or tomato juice.

Information flowed like his wine that day about the state of the Champagne region, and my pen couldn’t keep up. I had to consult the “Oxford Companion to Wine” edited by Jancis Robinson (Oxford Press, 1994) to make sense of my notes.

Taittinger mentioned how the Champagne region can’t increase the number of hectares (35,000) to produce more wine. The wine encyclopedia says that as a result, the region produces only one bottle in 12 of the total sparkling wines produced in the world. It is Australia and the western United States that have taken to producing sparkling wines. That’s probably why Taittinger went into partnership in California with Le Domaine Carneros, a vineyard between Sonoma and the Napa Valley.

While champagne is a welcome treat, it is more expensive than most of the non-sparkling counterparts. It is also Jancis Robinson who explains why beautifully in her book “Taking Pleasure: Confessions of a Wine Lover” (Penguin Group, 1997): You pay more because of “the sheer depth of flavor that takes years to develop, the way each mouthful lingers in your throat like a comforting, slow-release capsule of explosive warmth, and the fact that it wafts rather than gets up your nose.”

E-mail pinoyfood04@yahoo.com.

Twisted halloween cocktails

by Ed Biado

I’ll admit that my taste in cocktails is quite vanilla. Just give me glass after glass of Bacardi Coke and I’m all set for the night. But there are thousands of concoctions out there and one of the biggest party excuses, Halloween, gets its fair share. Given the spooky theme, the names of these—shall I call them—poisons are just as interestingly creepy. But don’t worry, they taste divine. Screw Bloody Mary (hah!); here are 10 “disgusting” mixes you can suck dry:

1. Voodoo Caesar

Rim a tall glass with lime juice and seasoning salt. Fill it with ice, add the following ingredients and stir.

6 oz. tomato juice

2 tsp. lime juice

1/8 tsp. Tabasco hot sauce

1 oz. vodka

1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

2. Bayou Slime

Muddle 6 fresh mint leaves and 2 oz. spiced syrup together. Place that, together with the following ingredients into a shaker.

4 oz. dark rum

1 egg white

Shake until well-chilled and frothy. Strain into a chilled martini glass and garnish with additional crushed mint leaves.

3. Coffee of the Damned

Add all the following ingredients in a large mug.

1/2 oz. tequila

1 oz. brandy

1 oz. scotch

1 tbsp. sugar syrup

Then, stir in a cup of coffee and float some lemon zest on top. Add a topping of whip.

4. Halloween Cocktail

Mix the following ingredients in a shaker with ice.

2 oz. bourbon

3 oz. orange juice

juice of half a lemon

Then, pour into a tall glass. Top with ginger ale and garnish with olives.

5. White Witch

Mix all ingredients in a blender at low speed for 10 seconds. Serve in a chilled sherbet or wine glass.

1/2 cup vanilla ice cream

1 oz. vodka

1 oz. white crème de cacao

6. Black Witch

Mix all ingredients with ice in a shaker and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

1/2 oz. pineapple juice

1 1/2 oz. gold rum

1 tsp. apricot brandy

1 tsp. dark rum

7. Blood-red Lime Rickey

Muddle the following ingredients in a shaker until juicy and fragrant.

6 fresh cherries, pitted

1/2 lime, cut into 3 wedges

2 teaspoons sugar

Add 3 oz. gin and crushed ice. Cover with a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously, or stir, until combined and chilled, about 30 seconds. Serve in a whiskey glass.

8. Blood & Sand

Mix all ingredients with cracked ice in a shaker or blender. Pour into a chilled old fashioned glass.

3/4 oz. cherry brandy

3/4 oz. orange juice

3/4 oz. scotch

3/4 oz. sweet vermouth

9. Brain

In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add all the ingredients. Stir until well chilled and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a fresh lychee fruit.

1/2 oz. sake chilled

1 1/2 oz. lychee nectar

1 1/2 oz. gin

10. Devil’s Tail

Mix all ingredients with ice in a blender. Pour into a chilled cocktail glass. Twist lime peel over drink and drop into glass.

1/2 oz. apricot liqueur

1/2 tsp. grenadine

1/2 oz. lime juice

1/2 oz. vodka

1 1/2 oz. gold rum

What's your martini?

by Ed Biado
The martini is one of the most widely-recognized cocktails in the world. In pop culture, it is a symbol of discriminating taste as many historical figures and fictional characters are known to prefer it to the point of making it their signature drink. And why wouldn’t one enjoy a martini? It’s crisp, clear, has an infusion of bright flavors and notes and it comes in over 40 variations (and counting). Here are the most popular kinds:
1. The classic standard martini is made with gin and dry vermouth in a four is to one ratio and is stirred with ice. After straining it in a chilled martini glass, it’s garnished with an olive or lemon peel. This produces a clear, colorless cocktail. The shaken version is slightly cloudy and the gin being “bruised,” producing a more bitter taste.
2. The vodka martini obviously substitutes gin for vodka. It is one of today’s most popular martini preparations and it’s almost assumed that when one orders a martini, it’s made with vodka.
3. The dirty martini puts the garnish to the forefront as it uses olive brine together with dry vermouth or omitting the latter altogether. The essence is further heightened by using three olives (instead of one) as garnish. A dusty martini, meanwhile, only adds a small amount of brine, simply to bring out a hint of the essence.
4. The Dirty Pickle substitutes olive brine in the dirty martini with pickle juice. This is garnished either with a mini gherkin or a dill spear.
5. The smoky martini is simply gin with a splash of Scotch, stirred and garnished with lemon peel. It is also called burnt martini.
6. The dry martini uses less dry vermouth than usual. Extra dry would mean even less. It’s virtually all gin with just a few drops of dry vermouth. The standard dry martini has different names, depending on the garnish—Okratini (pickled okra), Buckeye (black olive), Gibson (pickled onion), Gibsontini (onion-stuffed olive) and Spiceland (garlic-stuffed olive).
7. The Vesper is a James Bond invention. According to the pages of Casino Royale, it contains three measures of Gordon’s gin, one of vodka and half a measure of the French aperitif wine, Kina Lillet. It’s garnished with a slice of lemon peel and served in a champagne flute.
8. The Bronx is a fruity martini that was once ranked third in the world, in terms of popularity (after the standard martini and the Manhattan). This is a shaken cocktail that contains six parts gin, three parts sweet red vermouth, two parts dry vermouth and three parts orange juice.
9. The Kinopanorama martini is made with four parts London gin, two parts vodka and half a part each of Noilly Prat vermouth and Lillet Blanc. It’s shaken and garnished with a twist of lemon.
10. The Valencia martini uses Fino sherry instead of dry vermouth. Before pouring, orange peel is flamed in order for its oil to drop into and coat the martini glass. It’s garnished with an unburned orange peel. The vodka variant is called the Flame of Love martini.